Fashion journalist Victoria G. L. Brunton reports from Paul Costelloe's enchanting London Fashion Week show, where she asked the Irish designer about the inspiration behind his latest collection.
Paul Costelloe Spring Summer 2025 was inspired by Paris, set against the backdrop of the Waldorf Hilton in London.
The invitation to Paul Costelloe's Spring Summer 2025 show was an illustration by the designer, depicting a Parisian street corner with a mannequin sketch half coloured in a sherbet yellow. As far as teasers go, it was a pretty 'on the nose’ foreshadowing of what was to come.
The venue was none other than the Waldorf Hilton’s Palm Court in Holborn - a stones throw from the Thames and a stroll to bustling Covent Garden. A blow-up iteration of the same watercolour featured on the invite took centre stage bolstered by lampposts that were also seen dotted around the room.
The collection itself was splashed in a kaleidoscope of pastel and sorbet palettes; sky blue, zesty lime green and bursts of baby pink to name a few. The silhouettes felt disruptive for Costelloe - bloomer-like rompers, exaggerated puffed shoulders and tiers upon tiers of ruffles stuck in my mind.
More reserved outlines were cut from linen; trouser and short suits, shirts and jumpsuits. The styling and beauty had a contrastingly retro influence; striped knee-high socks sprouting from platform shoes, glossy Jackie Onassis-esque bobs and subtly 60s makeup.
As a grand finale, and that it was, Costelloe treated us to his first ever bridal collection. Three angelic dresses floated gracefully down the runway, each as effortlessly beautiful as the next; the first a floral brocade halter neck, the second a strapless, corseted number in lustrous satin and the third a scoop-neck with floral embellishments and a layered tulle skirt.
After Costelloe enjoyed a well-deserved resounding round of applause, I snuck backstage to ask him a few questions.
What was your main inspiration behind this season?
The main inspiration came somewhat by accident. I was at a fair in Milan a couple of months ago, a fabric fair, I saw these colours and loved how they all worked together. I was looking for an easy life, because I had been ill in February, so I wanted something that was simple and not too complicated.
I developed the design company and I worked with William on the prints, so they all worked very closely together. And then, all of a sudden, Paris happened. Not because of the Olympics, but because when I was designing as a young man of 20 or 21, I was living there so called "studying" ... I had a job with a man called Jacques Esterel, who was a couturier on former Saint-Honoré. I used to watch the head of the couture house working and got involved.
So, Paris has always remained with me, probably not as much as Milan, but in terms of style and consistency. While England had gone wild and wonderful, you had Vivienne Westwood and many other very famous designers, but they all went really extreme while Paris retained couture and control. I kind of was influenced by that side.
What is your favourite story in the collection?
My favourite story really would probably be the very first five pieces, because they were just so simple, I loved the blue and the hairstyles were all correct. Yeah, I think the first absolutely.
It was your first time designing wedding dresses, tell us a bit about that…
It was my very first time, something I'd never done before, but something I was curious about. I'm still a curious designer. I'm still looking at options and different ways of approaching the industry, and I still think I'm a fairly good designer… and luckily, it comes from me. I have a system that I still do.
I still draw the way I did in Paris back in the late 60s, early 70s. I still sketch, and I suppose that's why I'm still lucky to be involved and to be interviewed by you.
Can you offer a piece of advice for young Irish designers?
I was asked this recently for some business magazine, and I said number one; have a good accountant. Above all, before you can do anything, have good financials because you can lose money very quickly.
Do you have any post-show rituals? How will you be celebrating?
Well, we have lunch with all the assistants, the house model and everyone gets involved, it’s like a family lunch that will go on from half 12 to whenever. Then I’ll go home and relax.
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