A new smell called angelica has been wafting on Taranaki’s prevailing westerly breeze.
Known as the ‘herb of the angels’, it has various uses, from root to tip.
The herb is now being grown by Taranaki farmers who are taking part in a regional trial in diversification.
"Branching Out is a land and value chain diversification project. We're not just looking at what we can grow in Taranaki, but how we can add value to what we grow through processing and manufacturing,” said Venture Taranaki’s Michelle Bauer.
The herb – part of the parsley family – can be used across multiple industries.
“Angelica was selected as a crop for use by the gin industry. But we've found through our research that it has a wide use, not just for gin distillers, but also for the perfume and the natural health products industry,” said Bauer.
Dairy farmers Carol Cowley and Dave Carter are giving it a go.
“It’s totally different. We knew absolutely nothing about angelica. We're dairy farmers and not used to marketing for ourselves. It’s a whole new concept, thinking where it will go,” remarked Cowley.
Four types of angelica grow in the front paddock of their New Plymouth block, and on harvest day, when Seven Sharp visited, the smell was intense.
“It’s very strong,” remarked Cowley.
A paddock of perfume
Some of the local angelica was destined for the perfume market.
“Angelica is used across the board in perfumery a lot,” explained Brooke Lean, owner of New Plymouth's luxury fragrance store The Virtue.
Lean was impressed with the crop.
“It’s earthy, a little bit grassy, very natural, and quite deep and dark," she mused.
She is now working on a scent that captures the Taranaki vibe.
"I've been looking for something else. Another way to weave in where we're from. Something from the land that tells the story of New Zealand on a different level," said Lean.
"Putting those ingredients in our perfumes when we go into the export market is just another layer of storytelling for us. There are endless possibilities."
Lean is thrilled to be included in the project.
"It's exciting for me to be part of the bigger business ecosystem," she said.
"We've been kind of lone rangers here trying to do this crazy thing, so to get the support of all these new people coming into our stratosphere is exciting. It opens up your world a little more."
Botanical bounty
Jo and Dave James founded the local drop, Juno Gin. They were also excited about using angelica from their region.
“Oh my gosh, that's a stunning flavour,” exclaimed Jo, sampling a dried piece of angelina.
“Oh wow. My whole mouth is going berserk,” agreed Dave.
“In a modern gin, there are three base botanicals — juniper berries or cones, angelica root and coriander seed. So, we were importing the angelica root from overseas.”
They had been paying up to $80 a kilo for the imported stuff but felt it was inferior to what they had now seen locally.
They would instead be paying the farmer down the road.
“I can make different gins by changing where one ingredient is grown,” Jo said.
“We can taste the flavour differences between the different trial plots. [Angelica gives] big flavour oiliness that coats the mouth and gives you a tingly-ness. It's great.”
Promising trial
Everyone involved in the Branching Out project — which MPI supports — agrees that the trial looks hugely promising.
"I hope to, within the next six months to a year, get this under the nose of our perfumers in France. We want to get IFRA (International Fragrance Association) certified so that it can be used across the board — not just by us but by anyone in the perfume industry.
"So that makes this much bigger than just us," said Lean.
The Juno founders concur.
“There are 350 gin distilleries in Australia. So, the opportunity to start exporting premium, high-value crops is phenomenal,” said James.
For Cowley, it had opened her eyes to previously unseen possibilities.
“I was brought up on a dairy farm. I have farmed all my life. It's just fun doing something different. It’s similar because it's still farming, but it's another way of using our land," Cowley said.
“We have three families living on the farm, and it gives the opportunity that if they're interested in working here, we have different income streams.”
Venture Taranaki said the project wasn’t about abandoning traditional land uses but rather about complementing them with new opportunities.
“Our farmers are facing challenges, whether that be regulation, changing consumer preferences, or climate change, and the project provides examples of diversification in action. And potentially a blueprint for how they can follow it for other crops,” explained Bauer.
Other cultivars being considered were ashwagandha, liquorice, and calendula.
“Other regions are starting to stand up similar projects, but we are the first,” she smiled.
Field technician Sam Humphreys also feels proud.
“Taranaki is well suited because our soil is amazing. It's nice and loamy, free-draining, full of nutrients. Our climate is great – we get consistent rainfall every year.”
The three-year project was now halfway — long enough for Bauer to call it a triumph.
“We’ve shown that not only can we successfully grow it, but we can also process it in the region and sell it.
“We couldn't be more excited.”
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